Surfing

"The best surfer out there is the one having the most fun." - attributed to Duke Kahanamoku

“Surfing is for kicks, not crowds. It is for the individual neat it can bring. It is an all-grabbing, watery psychiatry in this over-organized world. To find the champion, you should hook them up with electrodes at all their vital points, take a reading, and find out who is having the most fun.” - First publish version I can find, from Bob Ottum

"The best surfer out there is the one having the most fun." - attributed to Duke Kahanamoku

“Surfing is for kicks, not crowds. It is for the individual neat it can bring. It is an all-grabbing, watery psychiatry in this over-organized world. To find the champion, you should hook them up with electrodes at all their vital points, take a reading, and find out who is having the most fun.” - First publish version I can find, from Bob Ottum https://www.google.com/books/edition/You_Should_Have_Been_Here_an_Hour_Ago/jnlYAAAAYAAJ?hl=en

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