Surfing

"The best surfer out there is the one having the most fun." - attributed to Duke Kahanamoku

“Surfing is for kicks, not crowds. It is for the individual neat it can bring. It is an all-grabbing, watery psychiatry in this over-organized world. To find the champion, you should hook them up with electrodes at all their vital points, take a reading, and find out who is having the most fun.” - First publish version I can find, from Bob Ottum

"The best surfer out there is the one having the most fun." - attributed to Duke Kahanamoku

“Surfing is for kicks, not crowds. It is for the individual neat it can bring. It is an all-grabbing, watery psychiatry in this over-organized world. To find the champion, you should hook them up with electrodes at all their vital points, take a reading, and find out who is having the most fun.” - First publish version I can find, from Bob Ottum https://www.google.com/books/edition/You_Should_Have_Been_Here_an_Hour_Ago/jnlYAAAAYAAJ?hl=en

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If you ever find yourself in a random industrial park in Oahu, look out for biziasurf coffee.

On the wall they have a 1958 letter from Duke.

(photo take by me at Bizia)

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The kind of evergreen advice more people should be embracing
100 $degen for recognizing the Duke 🏄‍♂️

The quote from Ottum has to be one of the best I’ve read. Thank you for sharing Breck