Kris Roos

@krisr

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Hey everyone, starting a solo moto trip through Western Africa! I’ll be sharing pictures and updates here, but don’t be concerned if I miss days. To keep things interesting I’m considering opening up some decisions to you all in real time… let’s see how this goes! 🤩

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DAY 12, April 27th Bir Gandouz Currently waiting on the visas for Mauritania, should come in soon! Rode out to the coast to visit a fishing village/port where the majority of the $ comes from in the region and it left more questions than answers. Really weird investment into different parts of the town. For example, consistent 20 meter high streetlights in the village and wide roads, but then 90% of the people live in shacks made from scrap materials. Ventured out onto the coastal roads and found a small hut in the distance. Decided to go investigate and turned out to be a military zone with a few guys living in a makeshift tent. The outpost is mostly for spotting drug traffic into Morocco from Mauritania, but the guys just had one old pair of binoculars. Invited us for tea/ cookies and fishing when the weather is better! Otherwise had a moment of adrenaline after getting chased by a pack of dogs guarding the port gate :) Looking to enter Mauritania in the next 24 hrs where the real adventure begins 🤩

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Is it Parc de La Grange in Geneva? Looking amazing!

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DAY 11, April 26 Dakhla -> Bir Gandouz 300 KM day went by surprisingly quick with zero speed loss even after more than doubling the weight (10 additional liters of fuel, more gear, and two people). Endless Sahara desert, driving past only two gas stations and a few abandoned looking huts during the ~8 hrs of riding. Stopped along the way to see the third highest rated activity in all of Western Sahara, Thermal Source Of Asnaa. Turns out to be literally just a guy with a hose who will spray you for 15 dirham (1.5 euro) 🤣 Got a local rec for camel and had my first camel Tajine, tastes almost like a cross between lamb and beef, overall pretty nice! 🐪 Found also the nicest hotel I’ve stayed in here, feels really out of place and like some sort of oasis (Fyndy Hotel Bir Gandouz) 😍

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Thanks a lot for the support! Definitely would have to be the shop experience in Tarfaya. Really cool perspective to see how a day to day Moroccan village life looks

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Thanks a lot :D and quite sore hahaha

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DAY 10, April 25 Dakhla Convinced madman Adrian from my time in Singapore to join the adventure and already off the ground with a great start 🤩 First headed to the top attraction in Western Sahara, Dune Blanche, which was a lot of pushing the bike through a few KMs of sand. Successfully avoided the quicksand a guy we met on the beach warned us about. Great views, but the best part was the off-road section back where we pushed the bike to its limits :) Got back to Dakhla at night and went for dinner at a butcher we saw while walking. I saw what looked like a testicle hanging from a piece of meat and I asked in hand signals if it was eaten, but the guy instantly cut it off and started preparing it for the grill… Tasted 90% like tofu. Everyone is warning us about Mauritania… had a driver really confused about why we are going to what he described as “hell” from Western Sahara which is already apparently “medium hell” 🤣

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DAY 9, April 24th Dakhla Started the rest day off great with a surprise breakfast brought to my room by the nice people at the hotel! Worked for the Japanese company for a few hours and then jumped into the streets to see the city. Next got a haircut at a relatively nice barber shop which came out to be two euros, after the barber didn’t want to break my bill for the remaining euro it was supposed to cost. Was a really nice experience since the guy used like seven different cutting devices. Left a nice review and gonna go back tomorrow to tip him. Got inspired by a friend to try kitesurfing, and was totally the right decision... Did three hours today and will go back tomorrow for more 😍 Aaand finished the day with a crazy fruit smoothie filled with nuts and dried fruits :)

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Just for wheelies hahaha

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Super cool spot, didn’t expect it to be such a kitesurfing hotspot. Seems to also be growing quickly with TONS of construction going on.

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Good question hahaha it’s cutting the fender off. Upgrade works

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DAY 8, April 23 Boujdour -> Dakhla After arriving in Boujdour, I had a few hours so explored the town and decided to make an important upgrade to the bike. Was just a matter of time but decided better sooner than later 🤭 Otherwise today I pushed about 400 kms down to Dakhla with constant surreal coastline views on the right and endless desert views on the left. 😍 ‼️Fun fact: Also met a local guy at breakfast who lives on Tenerife now and I managed to get some insight on how the human trafficking works to the Canary Islands. Usually the boats used are stolen and it costs around 400€ per person, which is a lot more than previous years since police are cracking down. They usually have an old engine which is used primarily with a new one as backup.

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Would definitely recommend it! If you do I’m happy to share more about the trip in detail and help you prepare :)

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DAY 7, April 22 Tarfaya -> Boujdour Time has come to say my goodbyes in Tarfaya and continue south towards Mauritania. Amazing coastline along the way, paired with loooong stretches of open hardcore Sahara desert. Super beautiful. 😍

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Good idea, just did it. Thank you!

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Hey thanks a lot I appreciate that! Would definitely recommend visiting Tarfaya and Mohammed :)

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It’s a replica of the Honda Super Cub from Motard. New Moroccan brand which imports from China!

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As far as time allows before I have to back to work in a few weeks. Planning on making it to Gambia to sell the bike there (easier paperwork). My Arabic is nonexistent hahaha but I’m learning the basics as I go. Generally a mix of Spanish, English, and French will get you through 90% of interactions.

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Yep, during the day for sure. The south (Western Sahara) is disputed, so here staying west is advisable. But I think it’s pretty safe to bikepack, I know people do it :)

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Quick anecdote from Tarfaya: yesterday while I was at a shop buying tea, I dropped a 200 dirham bill and didn’t notice. The woman from the cafe told Mohammed’s father who in turn found me to let me know to retrieve it. For reference 200 dirham is roughly enough to pay for 10-20 meals in Tarfaya. Really speaks to the quality of people here :)

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