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Kris Roos

@krisr

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DAY 12, April 27th Bir Gandouz Currently waiting on the visas for Mauritania, should come in soon! Rode out to the coast to visit a fishing village/port where the majority of the $ comes from in the region and it left more questions than answers. Really weird investment into different parts of the town. For example, consistent 20 meter high streetlights in the village and wide roads, but then 90% of the people live in shacks made from scrap materials. Ventured out onto the coastal roads and found a small hut in the distance. Decided to go investigate and turned out to be a military zone with a few guys living in a makeshift tent. The outpost is mostly for spotting drug traffic into Morocco from Mauritania, but the guys just had one old pair of binoculars. Invited us for tea/ cookies and fishing when the weather is better! Otherwise had a moment of adrenaline after getting chased by a pack of dogs guarding the port gate :) Looking to enter Mauritania in the next 24 hrs where the real adventure begins 🤩
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DAY 10, April 25 Dakhla Convinced madman Adrian from my time in Singapore to join the adventure and already off the ground with a great start 🤩 First headed to the top attraction in Western Sahara, Dune Blanche, which was a lot of pushing the bike through a few KMs of sand. Successfully avoided the quicksand a guy we met on the beach warned us about. Great views, but the best part was the off-road section back where we pushed the bike to its limits :) Got back to Dakhla at night and went for dinner at a butcher we saw while walking. I saw what looked like a testicle hanging from a piece of meat and I asked in hand signals if it was eaten, but the guy instantly cut it off and started preparing it for the grill… Tasted 90% like tofu. Everyone is warning us about Mauritania… had a driver really confused about why we are going to what he described as “hell” from Western Sahara which is already apparently “medium hell” 🤣
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DAY 5/6 April 20th/21st, Tarfaya After meeting Mohammed at the local hardware shop I decided slow down and spend some more time in Tarfaya. If you’re ever near Tarfaya you have to visit… it’s a really special community of amazing people. Mohammed is a really special guy that is bringing out a smile from everyone in the town and bringing the entire community together. I’ve never seen a host as good as him, immediately introducing me to everyone around, teaching me Arabic words, welcoming me into his home, and serving me three meals a day, not to mention all the tools and bike upgrades. Super special experience. 🤩 By spending time behind the counter at the shop, I got to meet a bunch of people from Tarfaya. The level of kindness is unreal, but also education. I met a mindblowing amount of people that worked local, non-tourist facing jobs who spoke, many time in combination, fluent English, Spanish, German, French, and Italian, in addition to their native Arabic/Darija.
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Day 3 started strong leaving Agadir and quickly getting into the Sahara desert with nearly nothing for hundreds of KMs in every direction. Pushed through some 350 KMs, making it to Tan-Tan which is this lost town in the middle of the desert- really surprised it exists (look at the map). Trip is getting more interesting with some unexpected obstacles now! After a detour to find gas, the last 100 KM ended up in the dark with crazy winds since this week there’s a windstorm here. I made it into town freezing at around 21:00 after the ride and found the hotel/ house I booked but with nobody there. Also in the meantime the USB outlet on the bike went out so my phone was about to die. Waited for nearly an hour before a little girl found me and gave me a cookie and then disappeared into the village to find the guy whose house it was thankfully :)
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Finally started the trip this morning after four days of hardcore research and negotiation to get a bike. Marrakesh is famous for scams and I expected it but still is insane how difficult it is to get reliable info. Spent the last days talking with everyone I could in the streets, markets, and dealerships to pull together some offers and info. Had tons of guys tells me everyone else is lying and they were my brother. Everyone seemed to have opposite opinions on topics incl. brands, models, prices, paperwork, regulation, and condition. Long story short, got the bike that every delivery guy drives. Paid everything in cash and no receipts or contracts of sale… Probably gonna be some issues with this in the next days/ weeks, but you can’t get plates or the official ownership certificate after buying in Morocco for around 4 months, so let’s see how I get through the corrupt borders + sell the bike in Gambia or somewhere without the papers. Arrived today in Essaouira and gonna head south tomorrow!
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