Is it possible to convert ETH to Bitcoin without going through a centralised exchange?

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I don’t think this is exactly what you’re looking for but swapping BTC to ETH is straightforward using Ledger. 

Takes minimal time, usually the constraint is the Bitcoin block time.

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My x worked well with swaps. It is slightly terrifying since I don’t know how the backend is actually swapping. Also the rate wasn’t the best if I remember correctly. 

Speed was nice. Needed liquidity

I have an old Nano S and could never get swaps to work in Ledger Live