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July
@july
If the world ended tomorrow, one of the things I’d genuinely regret is how I should’ve surfed more I have dreams / I often think about paddling into a wave and/or getting barreled as I’m falling asleep. or doing cutback, roundhouse etc etc. Sometimes the drop is too steep I don’t even make it (wtf it’s my dream let me do what I want) yeah it’s the feeling though. Anyways this is mostly a reminder to myself - find a way to get in the water, no need to force it but it beckons
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Thomas
@aviationdoctor.eth
I thought you meant web surfing in the first paragraph, and was about to suggest to perhaps connect your fingers with the lawn outside I’m not a surfer, but I did bodyboard often in heavy swell in my younger years and it’s a feeling I’ll never forget. A highlight was when I experienced a gorgeous NYE sunrise at 5–6am while riding glassy waves with no one around, after a night out celebrating the new year on a remote island in the southern hemisphere I’ve understood the appeal of being a beach bum ever since
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