Vladimir

@optimusik

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203 Followers

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i lost my streak because of some Warpcast bug. I did posts but it didn't count as community post and "pet" tag was removed so it posted as private post. Sadly it was a competition for me. Have a goood day everyone and good luck.

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If you have a strong dog, a dominant dog, or a dog with powerful instincts, you will achieve a positive result in three cases!: Not today. Not tomorrow. Never. Positive trainers use this populist marketing theory to destroy working and strong dogs. Around the world, we see bans on training tools, breed restrictions, and bans on protection work. Comments about working dogs, procedures, sports, and treats are made by trainers who know nothing about these subjects. Working with these dogs cannot be replaced by any theory. Training family dogs with low drive is completely different from training working dogs. Let’s stop this pleasant populist mainstream marketing. We must protect working dogs, sports, and training tools.

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Positive training is a super-motivational method that works great when the dog wants to obey. That is, when the reward from the owner is more interesting than the surrounding environment. However, it does not prepare the dog for situations when it doesn't want to obey a familiar command. This happens when the environment is more enticing than the handler and their rewards (like aggression, hunting, protection, etc.). Positive trainers have a theoretical solution for such situations. The environment is too distracting and difficult, so you need to train in simpler situations and gradually move to more challenging ones until you achieve the desired result.

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Do not take the dog out into the field, do not let it disobey and pull you toward the prey. This can only be done with weak dogs! With strong dogs, they should only be allowed to bite through obedience and contact with the owner. How many great dogs have been discarded due to such training imbalances that led to biting the owner and an inability to control this behavior?! It ends with the diagnosis - the dog is an idiot, biting the owner because the nerves are weak... But if you think about it, who did this? But no, why think? The dog is "not like that." Let’s get another one and do the same. And round and round we go... It’s sad that people can’t draw the right conclusions, and the dog is to blame for everything...

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And if it’s a weak dog, it’s not a problem; it doesn't really want to bite anyway :) and yes, it needs to be taught in a way that raises its interest, which it wasn't born with. BUT with strong dogs, which naturally have "steam coming out of their nostrils" when they see an opponent or prey, this approach will inevitably lead to conflict with the owner (the one who initially encouraged all of this and then started yanking, choking, and shocking). Where does the redirection to the owner and the nipping come from, you ask? Well, you did it yourself with your clumsy little hands guided by a shrimp brain... What to do? TEACH PROPERLY Do not let it come to conflict while maintaining a balance between the desire to bite and the ability to hear and listen to the owner. Do this gradually, understanding where such an approach will lead. It’s so simple.

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Yesterday, I held a "Q&A" webinar. 3.5 hours flew by in the blink of an eye. One of the main topics was controlling the dog in protection work. Among the other pressing questions was the redirection of aggression towards the owner and what to do about it? The main point is that before putting the dog into a strong drive, unleashing the wild energy of the element, teach it to listen to and hear you! How often do they first teach a puppy to bite without regard for the owner, "maximizing potential" by putting it into an unmanageable state where it wants nothing more than to chase and seize the prey at any cost? And only later, with the help of corrections (choke chain, slip lead, electric collar), do they try to bring this behavior under control? Yes, it happens all the time!

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The dogs with the learned helplessness, however, whimpered, ran around the box, and then lay down on the floor, enduring the increasingly strong electric shocks. A living creature becomes helpless when it gets used to the idea that its actions cannot affect the situation, that unpleasant things will happen no matter what. This concept extends to humans as well.

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“…The first group had the ability to avoid the shocks. By pressing a panel with their noses, they could stop the system from delivering shocks. Thus, they could control the situation. The second group received the same shocks but couldn’t influence the outcome. The shocks stopped only when the dogs from the first group pressed the panel. The third group received no shocks at all.” [Seligman, 1977] So, two groups of dogs experienced the same shocks for the same duration. The only difference was that one group could stop the unpleasant stimulus, while the other group could not, and they learned the futility of their attempts. The third group served as a control group. After this "training," all three groups were placed in a box with a divider they could easily jump over to avoid the shocks. The dogs that could previously control the shocks quickly jumped over the barrier. The control group also easily jumped over the barrier.

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The idea of the experiment was to condition dogs to associate a high-pitched sound with fear. After hearing a loud sound, the dogs would receive mild but noticeable electric shocks. The expectation was that over time, the dogs would react to the sound as they did to the electric shock—by jumping out of the box and fleeing. However, the dogs didn’t behave this way! Instead of taking the simplest action (jumping out of the box), they lay down on the floor and whined, making no attempt to avoid the discomfort. Seligman theorized that this behavior could be because the dogs lacked the physical ability to avoid the shocks during the experiment—they had become accustomed to the inescapability of the shocks and learned helplessness.

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This article will discuss several fascinating and crucial psychological experiments. They demonstrate that if a person (or even an animal) is deprived of the ability to influence a situation through their actions, over time, the desire to change anything will fade, even when the opportunity to take control reappears. On the other hand, the ability to change a situation, make choices, and take responsibility improves a person's physical and mental state, helps achieve better results, and can even extend life. Therefore, relationships based on power and submission, where an individual cannot control or influence the situation, strip people of their ability to seek solutions independently and lead to a loss of freedom and control, depression, passivity, and a lack of belief in personal agency or the possibility of change, even when such opportunities arise.

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I'd like to comment on a statement: "It’s not comfortable keeping dogs with high social aggression in urban settings… I prefer more manageable and balanced dogs, only then I care about their fighting qualities." A dog without social aggression is useless for protection! The author is talking about what I call "softies." A true protection dog must have a natural, healthy level of social aggression; otherwise, it’s not a protection dog, no matter how much you train it. For real protection (not to be confused with sports), social aggression is a must. Without it, a dog can’t act on its own, and protection is exactly that—an independent act (though not out of control). If a dog lacks this, all training will fall apart when faced with new, unexpected factors that even a well-trained dog without a solid core—without social aggression—isn't ready for. It's social aggression, not just love for the owner or a sense of duty, that is the main trigger for real, non-sporting protection.

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In the end, the connection is formed: Handler = bad (punishes), Decoy = good (allows biting the sleeve or suit). It’s all upside down… A dog should understand that the handler is its partner, and it depends on the handler whether it gets the sleeve or not. The decoy is just a figure in the field. This work requires brains and patience. If you are counting on a good result, until such a trusting relationship with the dog is established, there is no point in moving on to technical skills. Everything mentioned above has been tested many times in practice. I hope it will help many who deal with protection dogs to avoid mistakes and avoid mass problems, which are very difficult to fix later and at great cost. I wish everyone success in establishing long-term harmonious relationships with their loyal four-legged companions!

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Just a few words about protection work in sports. How often, when a dog doesn't obey or doesn’t release the sleeve, do we hear from handlers: “Show her who’s in charge, throw her down,” or “You have to conquer her, otherwise there won’t be any point”? Very often! And what happens as a result? The handler, losing their temper, begins correcting the dog, and this leads to a MASS of problems. First, the strong dog still won’t submit, or if it does, it will take advantage of the first chance to "snap" back. Secondly, the bite and release will suffer. The work will become inconsistent. Thirdly, in the future, there will be a strong distraction to the decoy. And how could it be otherwise? After all, the decoy is the "authority" who gives the punishment! And you need to respect (or even "fear") authority.

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My list of priorities for dog breeding Part 2: 5. Hardness – The ability to withstand physical and psychological correction/pain and keep going without breaking, even enjoying it! To pursue its goal no matter what. Masochists and thrill-seekers welcome! 🙂 6. Fighting drive – A love for fighting. Remember Porthos and his famous line: "I fight because... I fight!" 🙂 7. Genetic grip 8. Drive and endurance 9. Contact and desire to work for a person (social instinct) 10. Don’t ask me about "standards"—centimeters, the amount of white or black, tail shape... I honestly don't know and don't want to know, because the main parameters, the only ones important to me, have already been listed above.

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My list of priorities for dog breeding Part 1: 1. Health – Mental and physical. Without it, the dog cannot perform the functions listed below. 2. Ability and desire to confront outsiders 3. Ability to distinguish between friends and strangers (clear head and balance) – What does this mean? We love, listen to, and protect our own! 4. Inappropriate strangers and fools who think they can provoke a dog with impunity, fall on it drunk without consequences, grab its neck or leash without asking, hit it with a whip, scream at or grab the owner... they get bitten without hesitation. Because a stranger is a stranger, and a fighter is a fighter... Every fool gets a Vyatkins Malinois as an opponent. It may sound harsh, but it's honest. 5. Balance between arousal and inhibition – The dog must be able to switch on and off. At work, it’s on fire, sparking hooves... at home, it’s a calm, affectionate companion. If the dog can't relax or switch on, that's an imbalance.

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Next, accustom your dog to "positive correction." While working with a puppy on a leash, introduce slight corrections with the leash and reward with praise simultaneously. Always pay attention to the dog's condition. The tail should remain "firm" during this. If the dog's tail drops, or it tucks in, it indicates the dog's inner state. If the dog keeps its distance, avoids physical contact, this also shows a lack of trust. Sit down on the ground. Let the dog "climb" onto you, praise it, pet it. Show the dog that being with you is not dangerous, but on the contrary—very safe! If during a walk or at home, the dog gets too excited and rummages through the trash, give a slight correction with a designated marker and immediately redirect it into motion next to you with praise and encouragement. This will teach the dog that the "best" place is on the ground—right next to you.

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With proper training, toys and treats gradually take a back seat, while the emotional state and body language of the owner remain, letting the dog understand exactly what it did right. How can you develop the social instinct in sports training? As many people as there are, there are that many opinions. I prefer to start with teaching the puppy to follow the hand and perform tricks (give a paw, weave through the legs, roll over, etc.) that can be taught without associating them with basic commands. Firstly, tricks develop your puppy’s brain and teach it to actively search for solutions to problems—an ability that will be very useful in future training. Secondly, later on, tricks can be used to diversify routine work according to standards, and most importantly, they teach the dog to cooperate with the owner, which means—to work for him!

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To enhance motivation in training, we use toys and treats. But it’s not the TOY that should serve as the motivator, but rather the GAME with the owner. Not just a treat given for correct behavior, but the process of giving the treat, which should be accompanied by enthusiastic praise and turned into a celebration for the dog, with the owner as the main player. To understand the difference, try a simple experiment. Take three pieces of "delicacies" and, showing the dog the first one, calmly feed it to her. Then, show the next piece to the dog and immediately pull it away, making her chase your hand while giving enthusiastic praise and gently stroking her with your other hand. Try the same with a toy. I'm sure you will immediately notice the difference in the dog's behavior and condition.

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Did I give my dog a chance to behave properly? What does giving a chance mean? It means proper education at a good school where you'll be taught how to correctly interact with your dog. And no, you can’t do it on your own—you need a school. Not because your dog is stupid, but because training is a science, and a trainer is a profession that requires learning. You, as your dog’s trainer, also need to learn. Before seeking "behavior correction," take a moment to read a short list of what can happen when correction is done incorrectly. Development and redirection of aggression towards the owner Increased aggression towards animals and people Development of fear and phobias Depression Physical and psychological trauma Breakdown in the relationship with the owner This is just a short list of problems caused by incorrect correction or correction without proper prior training. Think about this before signing up for "behavior correction" and instead switch your request to "proper and thoughtful training."

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The Cure is Worse Than the Disease. Among the services offered by many trainers, "behavior correction" is often one of the top options. I can confidently say that this service is primarily used by those who don’t want to bother with proper training and education of their dog. Such clients seek a quick fix to "problems" through behavior correction. Pulls on the leash—correction. Doesn’t come when called, picks up food on the street—correction. Barks at passersby and animals—correction. Chases cars and starts fights—correction. Climbs on the table without permission—correction. ... These "owners" believe that the dog MUST behave correctly, that it’s being disobedient on purpose and acting against the owner's will. But they never stop to ask themselves, what have I done to make things different?

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